benboarding

I took off from work and went to Ski Liberty today. I probably shouldn't have, I really should have been at the shop.

I have been reading two different books the last couple of weeks. I have been reading Laird Hamilton's new book, and also Eddie Would Go, the story of a Hawaiian life guard and pioneer big wave surfer Eddie Aikau. Eddie would routinely go out to rescue swimmers and surfers when conditions were so bad no one else would go. (The book is about way more than just surfing. I highly recommend it.)

Anyway, I woke up this morning with a million reasons not to go. I thought about it while I drank my coffee, and you know what......Eddie would go, so I went!

It was good. I needed it. Thanks Eddie.


http://www.surfline.com/surfaz/surfaz.cfm?id=740

http://live.quiksilver.com/2008/bigwave/